The short answer

If you want a buying guide for a fake Rolex Explorer II 1655, this is not it. Counterfeit watches carry Rolex trademarks without permission, and importing, selling, or shipping them is illegal in the United States and most of Europe, so there is no honest way to recommend one. The genuine reference 1655 is a different story and a rewarding one. If you are buying a real one, decide first what you value most: original dial and hands, an unpolished case, or a complete set with papers. Originality beats cosmetics every time, because a repainted dial cannot be undone and an over-polished case cannot be rebuilt. Buy from a dealer who will put the watch's condition and authenticity in writing and give you a return window.

What the reference actually is

Rolex introduced the Explorer II ref. 1655 in 1971 and built it until roughly 1985. It was designed for people who spend time underground, with a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange 24-hour hand so a wearer can tell day from night without seeing the sun. The steel case measures about 39 mm, the crystal is acrylic, and the movement is the caliber 1575, a 1570 base with a GMT module. It is a tool watch that became a collector watch, which is why condition and originality drive value far more than the model name.

Dial and hand variations

Collectors group 1655 dials into marks, usually Mk1 through Mk5, with differences in lume plots, the shape of the coronet, and the placement and font of the Explorer II text. The orange arrow hand changed shape during production as well. None of these marks is automatically better than another, but a dial that does not match the case serial range is a warning sign. Look for even patina across the plots and hands, crisp printing with no spidering or flaking, and a matte finish that has not been wiped or recoated.

Case, bezel, and bracelet

The 24-hour bezel is fixed and often polished or replaced over four decades of use. Check the depth of the engraving and the font against reference photographs. On the case, look at the lug bevels and the thickness of the lugs. Sharp bevels and full lugs mean the case has seen little polishing. Soft, rounded lugs and thinned crown guards mean it has seen a lot. Correct Oyster bracelets and end links matter, and bracelet date codes should be consistent with the case.

Movement and service history

The caliber 1575 is robust, but parts are no longer made and service dials, hands, and crystals are common in watches that went back to a service center in the 1980s or 1990s. A watch with a service dial is not a bad watch. It is a cheaper watch, and it should be priced and described as one. Ask what has been replaced and get the answer in writing.

Parameter bands to compare

• Entry tier: correct movement and case, but replaced dial, hands, bezel, or crystal, or heavy polishing.
• Mid tier: original dial and hands with honest wear, one or two replaced service parts, case lightly polished.
• Top tier: original dial, hands, bezel insert, and unpolished or lightly polished case, with matching bracelet and service history.
• Full set: the above plus box and papers. This adds a premium and makes resale easier, but it never fixes a bad dial.

Pitfalls

• Relumed or repainted dials offered as untouched. Under a loupe, original lume sits in the plot, not on top of it.
• Frankens, where a later service dial or caseback is paired with an earlier case. Serial range and dial mark should agree.
• Aftermarket bezels with shallow engraving and wrong fonts.
• Watches described as genuine that are counterfeit. Authentication letters, a written description, and a solid return policy are the only real protection.
• Watches with unclear ownership history. Stolen watches get seized, and you lose the money.

FAQ

Is the Steve McQueen nickname official? No. McQueen was associated with the reference in collector lore, but the nickname grew in the market rather than from Rolex.

Should I send it to Rolex for service? Rolex will make it run correctly, and it may also replace original parts. If originality matters to you, use an independent watchmaker who will work to your instructions.

Why not just buy a replica? Because it is illegal to import or sell, it cannot be authenticated, it has no resale value, and it funds an industry built on trademark theft. If you want the look without the cost, buy a legitimate watch from a brand that designs its own case and dial.