Quick answer
A replica Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 copies the watch Rolex built from 1971 to 1985: a 40 mm steel case, a fixed 24-hour bezel, and an orange arrow hand. Collectors call it the Steve McQueen, even though McQueen never wore one. Judge a replica on four points: case proportions, the fixed bezel, dial print, and the movement inside. Replicas that get all four right start around $250. Anything under $100 usually fails on the bezel shape and the dial.
The real 1655 in one minute
Rolex launched the Explorer II ref. 1655 in 1971 for cave explorers and workers who spent long stretches underground, where day and night blur together. The fixed 24-hour bezel plus the orange 24-hour hand let the wearer track a second time zone or read day against night on a 24-hour scale. Production ran to 1985, when the reference was replaced by the 16550. The case measured 40 mm across, the crystal had no magnifier over the date, and the movement was a 1570-family caliber, the 1575 with date.
Why it is called the Steve McQueen
The nickname is a misnomer. McQueen wore a Submariner, and no photo shows him with an Explorer II. The label appears to come from Italian dealers and collectors in the 1970s and 1980s, where the same watch is known as the Freccione, or big arrow. The name stuck and survives in listings today. If a seller insists McQueen wore the watch, treat that as a sign the seller is repeating marketing copy instead of reference material.
Replica inspection checklist
Work through these in order when you have photos or the watch in hand.
- Measure the case across the bezel without the crown. It should read 40 mm, with a 20 mm lug width and about 12.5 mm thickness.
- Check that the bezel does not turn. The 1655 bezel is fixed, so a rotating bezel means the maker used a GMT-Master case.
- Read the bezel engraving. Numerals run from 1 to 24 in even steps and should be filled and legible at arm's length.
- Look at the 24-hour hand. The arrow head is straight and symmetric, the orange is flat rather than glossy, and the hand points toward the bezel.
- Confirm the crystal has no magnifier over the date window.
- Compare dial print against photos of the dial variant you are buying, since fonts and script color changed across 1971 to 1985 production.
- Check date alignment. The date should sit centered in the window at every number from 1 to 31.
- Ask for a movement photo or a video of the seconds hand sweep along with a timegrapher reading.
- Test the crown. Winding, setting, and date change should feel firm with no grinding or slack.
- Keep the watch dry. Never trust the water resistance of a replica, whatever the listing claims.
Red flags
- Listings that use photos of a genuine watch, or that crop the caseback and movement.
- A price under $80 with a description promising a Swiss ETA movement.
- Any claim of a 1:1 build with no supporting measurements.
- Sellers who will not name the movement or show a timegrapher result.
- Nickel-plated cases advertised as 316L stainless steel. Ask for the grade in writing.
Movement choices
Most 1655 replicas use one of three movements. The cheapest is a 21-jewel Chinese automatic, which keeps time but runs rough and often has a stiff date change. The middle option is an Asian copy of the ETA 2824 or 2836, the common choice between $200 and $400, and it is easy for a watchmaker to service. Above that, some builders fit a Swiss ETA or a Sellita SW200, which raises the price but gives a smoother sweep and better parts support over the years.
Finishing details that separate tiers
Case polishing is the fastest way to spot a low-tier replica. Look at the lug bevels, the chamfers along the case flanks, and the transition between brushed and polished surfaces. On a good replica those lines stay straight and even. On a cheap one the brushing runs into the polished flank or the chamfer gets rounded off. Bracelet end links should sit flush against the case with no gap, and the clasp should close with a firm click.
What to expect for the money
Budget tier, $80 to $200: the case shape is close, but the bezel and dial print usually miss. Mid tier, $200 to $450: correct 40 mm case, fixed bezel, decent dial, Asian ETA clone inside. Top tier, $450 and up: sharper dial print, a crystal matched to the original profile, and sometimes a Swiss movement. No replica is an investment, and resale value is close to zero.