Short Answer
A replica Fifty Fathoms 5050 is a copy of the modern Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Copies sell in three rough tiers: budget builds with small cases and printed dial text, mid builds with cloned case shapes and Japanese or Chinese automatic movements, and top builds that copy the case profile, sapphire bezel insert, applied markers, and Swiss movement. The tier is visible in the case, bezel, crystal, dial print, hands, and movement, so inspect those parts one at a time before you pay and again when the watch lands.
Prerequisites
- Calipers or a digital gauge for case and lug width
- A 10x loupe for dial print and caseback engraving
- Photographs of the actual watch, not factory renders
- The seller's written specs: diameter, thickness, lug width, movement name
- A payment method with buyer protection
How to Inspect a Replica Fifty Fathoms 5050
- Confirm the version in writing. Ask the seller for case diameter, thickness, lug width, crystal type, bezel insert material, and movement. Sellers label different builds as the 5050, so the numbers matter more than the listing title.
- Measure the case when it arrives. Use calipers across the case at 3 and 9 o'clock, then measure lug to lug and thickness. Compare each number to the spec sheet you were sent.
- Rotate the bezel through a full turn. A good copy has 120 firm clicks with no back play, no wobble, and a pip that lines up with 12 o'clock on the dial.
- Tilt the crystal under a lamp. Look for a domed profile, a colorless anti-reflective coat, and no milky haze at the edges.
- Loupe the dial print. Check that the brand text sits on a level line, that marker surrounds are applied metal, and that the date window, if fitted, is cut straight with no white halo.
- Study the hands. Look for polished bevels, a clean sweep second hand, and lume that fills the frame without overflow.
- Work the crown. Unscrew it, set the time, wind it, and push it back. Threads should engage without grit, and the stem should not wobble in the tube.
- Verify the movement. Ask for a photo of the movement before shipping. A decorated rotor over a low-grade base is common in cheap builds, while top builds use a Swiss automatic with a stated power reserve.
- Charge and test the lume. Hold the watch under a light for 30 seconds, then check glow in a dark room at 5 minutes and 30 minutes.
- Inspect the caseback. Look at engraving depth, serial stamping, and whether the caseback sits flush with the case.
- Pressure test or accept the risk. Replicas are not rated by the original maker. If you plan to swim, have a watchmaker test the seals first.
- Check the strap or bracelet hardware. Pins should seat with a click, the clasp should close under light thumb pressure, and the end links should sit level with the lugs.
Price Tiers at a Glance
Entry Tier
- Printed markers, mineral or thin sapphire crystal, light case
- Basic automatic movement with short power reserve
Mid Tier
- Cloned case shape, sapphire bezel insert, applied markers
- Japanese or Chinese automatic with better finishing
Top Tier
- Correct case profile and bezel action, AR-coated domed sapphire
- Swiss automatic, sharp dial print, strong lume
Red Flags
- Seller refuses photos of the actual watch
- Dimensions on the listing conflict with the specs in chat
- Bezel turns with grit or stops between clicks
- Dial text sits crooked or markers are flat paint
- Movement photo shows an undecorated base with no markings
Care Notes
Keep the crown screwed down, rinse the case with fresh water after salt exposure, and have the gaskets checked each year if you wear the watch in water. Replicas carry no manufacturer warranty, so budget for service from an independent watchmaker. Store the watch away from magnets, and avoid setting the date between 9 p.m. and 3 a.m. on movements with a date gear that engages during that window.