Vintage Cartier covers watches made before the 1990s, plus modern reissues of those designs. The look comes from four parts: a rectangular or shaped case, Roman numerals, a railroad minute track, and a blue cabochon on the crown. Replicas of these models run from $40 quartz pieces to $400 automatic copies.
Models That Get Copied Most
Four references hold most of the replica market.
- Santos. First made in 1904. Square case, exposed screws on the bezel, leather strap.
- Tank. Introduced in 1917. Rectangular case, straight lugs, proportions tied to the Renault tank of WWI.
- Panthere. Released in 1983. Case and bracelet form one line. Steel or two-tone finishes are common.
- Crash. Made in 1967 in London. Bent case, small production run, high auction prices.
Parts to Compare
Case width and length matter more than photos suggest. A Tank Solo small measures 34.8 mm by 27.4 mm. Replica cases often run 1 mm to 3 mm wider. Check lug width, because a strap cut for the original will not fit a copy.
Dial printing is the second check. Genuine dials hide the Cartier signature inside the VII numeral on some references. Replica dials print the name in a heavier font.
The crown cabochon is the third check. Real stones are synthetic spinel, cut and set. Copies use glass or plastic, and the color shifts toward purple or orange under light.
Movements split into three groups. Quartz copies cost the least and hold time. Hand-wound clones of the ETA 7001 or the Cartier 430 MC cost more. Automatic copies use Chinese or Japanese base movements.
Case Materials
Original vintage Tanks came in 18k gold, vermeil, and steel. Most replicas use 316L stainless steel with gold plating. Plating thickness runs 3 to 10 microns. Plating under 5 microns wears through at the lugs within a year of daily wear.
Legal Status in the US
Selling a watch that carries a registered trademark without permission violates the Lanham Act. U.S. Customs and Border Protection can seize and destroy shipments of counterfeit goods. USPTO records list Cartier trademark registrations for watches and jewelry. Personal purchase is not a federal crime in most cases. Resale is a different matter.
Price Ranges
Quartz Tank copies: $40 to $90. Automatic Santos copies: $150 to $350. Gold-plated Panthere copies: $90 to $200. Prices above $500 reflect a modified movement more than better case finishing.