Short answer

A replica Ballon Bleu two tone is a copy of the Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier built in stainless steel with gold on the bezel and the center bracelet links. Genuine two-tone models use 18k rose gold or 18k yellow gold. Replicas use gold plating, gold-filled sheet, or solid 18k gold parts on custom builds. Price runs from about $60 for a quartz model to $900 or more for a build with a Swiss ETA movement and gold wrapping.

Genuine specs to compare against

  • Case sizes: 33 mm, 36 mm, and 42 mm. Two-tone versions exist in all three.
  • Example reference: W69009Z3, a 36 mm steel and yellow gold model. Cartier reference numbers change by year and market.
  • Crown: fluted, set with a blue synthetic spinel.
  • Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
  • Dial: guilloche pattern, Roman numerals, blued steel sword hands.
  • Movement: caliber 076 (base ETA 2671) in the 33 mm automatic, caliber 049 (base ETA 2892-A2) in the 36 mm, caliber 1847 MC in the 42 mm.

What replica tiers use

  • Tier 1, $60 to $120: quartz movement, 316L steel, gold plating at 1 to 3 microns, mineral glass or low-grade sapphire.
  • Tier 2, $150 to $350: Miyota 9015 or Seagull ST2130, plating at 3 to 5 microns, sapphire crystal, 5 ATM rating.
  • Tier 3, $400 and up: ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200, gold-wrapped center links at 10 to 15 microns, tighter case finishing.

Checks before you pay

  1. Measure the case across at 3 to 9 o'clock, crown excluded. A listed 36 mm case should measure 36 mm.
  2. Compare the gold tone on the bezel with the center links. A visible color gap points to two plating batches.
  3. Ask for the plating thickness in microns. A seller with no number is selling Tier 1 or Tier 2.
  4. Check the crown stone. It should sit flush and not turn. Loose stones are common on low tiers.
  5. Check the date at 3 o'clock. Font and window size should match the dial.
  6. Check the weight. A 36 mm two-tone Ballon Bleu on a full bracelet weighs about 120 g. Most replicas land between 90 g and 110 g.
  7. Ask for water resistance in ATM. Most replicas rate 3 ATM to 5 ATM. Do not swim with any of them.

Service and parts

Cartier does not sell parts or service replica watches. A watchmaker can swap a Miyota 9015 or an ETA 2824-2, since both are off-the-shelf movements with wide parts supply. Case parts, the fluted crown, and the crown stone are not available. A damaged case part ends the watch.

Legal status in the US

Counterfeit watches are illegal to import into the United States. 19 U.S.C. 1526 and 15 U.S.C. 1124 cover trademark infringement on imported goods. US Customs and Border Protection can seize a shipment, including a single watch sent by mail. The buyer can lose the item and the money paid. Penalties can reach the value of the goods plus fines.