Quick Answer

Start at the caseback. A genuine IW329060 has deep, crisp engraving with the reference number, a serial between the lugs that matches the papers, and a movement finished to IWC standards. Most fakes fail on three points: shallow laser text on the back, a bezel with grit or back play, and a rotor with the wrong engraving or brushing. Check the caseback first, then the dial, then the movement, then the paperwork.

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Before You Start

  • A 10x loupe and a bright, diffused light
  • Calipers or a digital scale for weight checks
  • Reference photos of a known genuine IW329060
  • The seller's photos of the caseback, movement and papers

Step by Step

1. Match the reference and serial

  1. Read the reference number on the caseback and confirm it reads IW329060, not a nearby Aquatimer reference.
  2. Locate the serial number between the lower lugs and compare it with the warranty card and hang tag.
  3. Photograph both numbers at 10x and compare the font weight with known genuine examples.

2. Inspect the caseback engraving

  1. Angle the case under the light and look for a milky, raised edge around the letters.
  2. Run a fingernail across the text. Genuine engraving sits in a clean recess with sharp walls.
  3. Check the caseback threads for a machined finish and full, even engagement.

3. Test the bezel and crown

  1. Turn the bezel through a full rotation and count the clicks. The action should feel tight with no back play.
  2. Press the crown in and out and confirm it springs back without wobble.
  3. Unscrew the crown and check the thread pitch against a known genuine watch.

4. Read the dial under magnification

  1. Check the hour markers for even lume fill and sharp metal frames.
  2. Look at the date window for a centered disc and clean aperture edges.
  3. Confirm the printing has square, unbroken strokes and no ink spread.

5. Check the crystal and hands

  1. Look at the crystal edge for a domed profile and clean anti reflective tint.
  2. Confirm the hands have beveled edges and no tool marks at the pinion.
  3. Set the time and watch the hand alignment at 12 o'clock.

6. Open the case and verify the movement

  1. Have a watchmaker remove the back in a clean bench setting.
  2. Compare the rotor engraving, jewel count and bridge finishing against reference photos.
  3. Check for a movement spacer that looks hand cut or a rotor that spins with a tinny sound.

7. Inspect the bracelet and clasp

  1. Check the end links for a tight fit and no gap at the lugs.
  2. Look at the clasp engraving for depth and consistent spacing.
  3. Weigh the watch and compare with published figures for the reference.

8. Verify the paperwork

  1. Compare the card printing, font and stamp with genuine examples.
  2. Call an IWC boutique and confirm the serial against the reference.
  3. Walk away if the price sits far below the market for a full set.

Common Failure Points

Most fakes of this reference show up at the caseback, the bezel action and the rotor. Dial printing on replica Aquatimer models is usually close, so do not rely on the face alone. Weight is a useful quick test, but a heavy fake with a cheap movement still passes a hand test, which is why the movement check comes last and matters most.

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