The top pick for most buyers is a matte-dial 5513 replica built to late-1960s spec: feet-first depth printing, drilled lugs, a domed acrylic crystal, and a low-beat movement. It wins on the four things that decide whether a 5513 fake reads as real on the wrist: dial printing and finish, case and crown-guard geometry, crystal and bezel insert, and movement beat rate. The gilt-dial and late gloss-dial versions follow below, along with the tells that separate a careful build from a catalog photo with a Submariner dial dropped into a generic case.
Why the 5513 is a hard watch to replicate
Rolex built the reference 5513 from 1962 to 1989 as the no-date, non-chronometer Submariner. It carried no "Officially Certified Chronometer" line on the dial, ran a 40 mm case rated to 200 m (660 ft), used a domed acrylic crystal, and was powered by the calibre 1520, which beats at 19,800 vph. Those details are the whole argument: a replica that gets the case right but ships a 28,800 vph movement, a sapphire crystal, or a flat ceramic-style insert is wrong in ways a knowledgeable eye catches at arm's length.
Top pick: matte-dial 5513, feet-first printing (roughly 1970 to 1978)
- Pros: Matte dials are the most forgiving to print and the easiest to age in a believable way. Feet-first depth text (660ft = 200m) matches the widest slice of the production run, so the dial does not fight the case details. Drilled lug holes, a friction bezel, and a domed crystal are all well understood by builders, which means more examples get the small things right. Tritium plots with a warm cream tone look natural on a matte base.
- Cons: With no date window and no cyclops, every printing flaw sits in the open. Aged lume is often faked with paint that looks orange under office light, and matte texture is frequently too flat or too grainy. Plenty of builds pair this dial with a high-beat movement, which is the wrong sound and the wrong sweep.
Who it suits: a first vintage-style replica, and anyone who wants a 5513 that survives a side-by-side look on the wrist.
Gilt-dial 5513 (early to mid 1960s)
- Pros: The most distinctive 5513 look. Gloss black dial, gold-toned printing, a chapter ring of small minute marks, and a pointed-crown guard profile make it a collector's favorite. Scarcity of good examples means a careful build stands out.
- Cons: The hardest spec to fake well. Gilt printing needs sharp, thin strokes and a glossy lacquer that reflects without looking wet. "Tropical" brown dials are routinely faked with dye or heat. Doubled printing, thick text, and the wrong coronet shape are common. Case profiles from this era are slimmer than most replica cases allow.
Who it suits: buyers who already know the reference and can inspect photos closely. Not a safe first purchase.
Late gloss-dial 5513 (mid 1980s)
- Pros: Gloss dial with white gold surrounds around the markers, brighter lume, and a slightly more modern feel. Better water resistance in real terms if the case is built properly, and it pairs well with a 93150-style bracelet.
- Cons: It looks like a 1987 watch, so the vintage premium in the price is not matched by the look. Gloss dials show dust and scratches, and lume that should be stark white is often sold with fake aging that belongs on a 1970s dial.
Who it suits: someone who wants the 5513 case and crystal but a cleaner, brighter dial.
The four criteria that decide quality
Dial and printing
Check the coronet shape, the spacing of "ROLEX" and "Oyster Perpetual", and the depth rating. On a matte dial, the paint should sit flat with slight texture, not glossy. Lume plots should be applied evenly and sit inside the surrounds, not spill over.
Case, lugs, and crown guards
The 5513 case has a slim profile and crown guards that taper into the mid-case. Lug holes should be drilled and centered. Polished lug tops with sharp, unpolished sides are correct; a fully high-polish case is not.
Crystal and bezel insert
A domed acrylic crystal with a slight edge distortion is right. Sapphire is wrong. The bezel should be a friction-fit, bidirectional type, and the insert numerals should have the thicker font seen on period pieces rather than laser-thin modern type.
Movement and hand stack
A 19,800 vph beat is period-correct and produces a slower sweep. A 28,800 vph movement is the most common giveaway. Hands should be tritium-style with a painted finish, not glossy lacquer, and the seconds hand should match the dial era.
Red flags to walk away from
- "Swiss made" text at 6 o'clock on a dial that is otherwise matte and 1960s-styled.
- Lume that glows under a lamp. Genuine tritium on a 5513 is dead.
- Sapphire crystal sold as acrylic, or a crystal with no edge distortion.
- High-beat movement in a watch sold as a 5513.
- Caseback stamped with a date code that does not match the dial era.
- Seller photos that never show the crown guards, the lug holes, or the movement.
Legal and practical note
In the United States, trafficking in counterfeit goods falls under the Trademark Counterfeiting Act (18 U.S.C. 2320), and customs can seize shipments. A replica 5513 is a novelty item, not an investment, and it cannot be resold as a Rolex. Get the seller's description in writing as a replica, and keep the watch out of any transaction where it could be mistaken for a genuine piece.
Which one to pick
Choose the matte-dial, feet-first build unless you have a specific reason not to. It matches the widest production window, hides aging better, and gives you the cleanest checklist to inspect before you pay. Move to the gilt-dial only if you can read printing quality from photos, and pick the late gloss-dial if you want the case shape without the vintage patina game.