The short answer: the IW329060 is faked because it is a steel IWC dive watch with a machined case, a printed dial, a molded rubber strap and a closed caseback, and none of those parts require the tooling that a ceramic bezel or a fluted gold bezel does. The IWC name still carries weight, genuine examples are thin on the ground, and few buyers have handled one in person. Our top pick for this reference is a build that gets three things right: a bezel that indexes with the crown, a caseback with correct reference and serial engraving, and a Swiss or high grade Japanese automatic that a watchmaker will service. The sections below explain why those three points decide the watch, and where cheap builds fall apart.
Why the IW329060 Gets Copied at All
IWC sells the Aquatimer in small numbers next to the Submariner, and that cuts both ways. There is less reference photography online for a counterfeiter to match, and there are fewer genuine watches in circulation for a buyer to compare against. A shop that already stamps stainless cases can tool up for this reference with modest changes, and the rubber strap removes the hardest part of any replica, the bracelet, from the equation. Low tooling cost plus low scrutiny is the whole reason the model is copied. It is not a compliment to the design, it is arithmetic.
Criterion 1: Caseback Engraving and Reference Markings
The closed back is where most fakes give themselves up. Genuine engraving is cut deep with crisp walls. Replica engraving is often laser etched, shallow, with soft letterforms and a reference number sitting a hair off center.
Pros of a correct build
- Reference and serial placement survive a loupe and a photo check
- Engraving depth holds up after a light polish
- Correct font weight on the caseback text matches factory photography
Cons of a weak build
- Etched text that disappears under strong light
- Wrong reference digits, or a serial that repeats across units
- Caseback threads that feel gritty when you close it
Best for: buyers who plan to resell, or who handle the watch with the back off during service.
Criterion 2: Bezel Action and Crown Linkage
The Aquatimer bezel is driven through the crown, so the two parts have to behave as one system. A replica that treats the bezel as decoration will drift past the markers, feel mushy at the detents, or refuse to lock. Test it before you look at the dial.
Pros of a correct build
- Detents land on the minute markers with a clean click
- The crown engages the bezel without slack or backlash
- Bezel stays put during wear and does not creep
Cons of a weak build
- Bezel spins with no defined stops
- Crown turns but the bezel lags behind it
- Grit or dry grease under the ring from the first day
Best for: anyone who actually wears the watch in water or uses the bezel as a timer. This is the single hardest part to fix later.
Criterion 3: Dial Printing, Markers and Lume
Print quality is cheap to get right and easy to spot when it is wrong. Look at the dial at an angle under a lamp, not straight on in a shop window.
Pros of a correct build
- Applied markers sit level and flush with the rehaut
- Lume charges fast and fades at the same rate across all markers
- Date font and window position match the reference
Cons of a weak build
- Fuzzy logo print with visible dot gain
- Lume that glows a hard green or fades unevenly
- Marker edges that catch a fingernail
Best for: everyday wear, where the dial is the only part anyone else sees.
Criterion 4: Case Finishing and Strap Fit
Brushing direction, edge transitions and the fit of the strap to the lugs tell you how much hand work went into the case. Uniform brushing across every surface is the classic tell of a rushed build.
Pros of a correct build
- Brushed and polished surfaces meet on a defined line
- Strap sits flush to the lugs with no gap or overhang
- Case edges are eased, not sharp enough to catch a sleeve
Cons of a weak build
- Over-polished lugs that lost their shape
- Strap molded short and pulling away from the case
- Spring bars that rattle in oversized holes
Best for: collectors comparing a replica side by side with a genuine example.
Criterion 5: Movement and Serviceability
Ask what is inside and whether a local watchmaker will take the job. A Swiss clone or a Miyota automatic can be regulated and serviced. A no-name movement with a glued spacer cannot.
Pros of a correct build
- Hacking seconds and a quickset date
- Movement holder screwed down, not glued
- Parts available for a routine service
Cons of a weak build
- Rotor noise you can hear across a room
- No hacking, so setting the time is guesswork
- Spacer held with adhesive that fails in heat
Best for: long term owners. If you keep a watch more than three years, pay for the movement.
Who Should Buy Which Tier
- First replica, worn often: mid tier with a Miyota automatic and a working bezel linkage. Skip the cheapest listing, the bezel is where the savings show.
- Comparing against a genuine watch: top tier only, and check the caseback engraving first.
- Beater or travel watch: entry tier is fine if the dial print is clean and the strap fits.
Red Flags Checklist
- Seller cannot name the movement or show a caseback photo.
- Bezel turns freely with no detents.
- Reference digits on the back do not match the listing.
- Logo print looks thick or doubled under magnification.
- Price sits far below every other listing for the same spec.
If two or more of those apply, walk away. The reference is copied often enough that a better example is always one listing away.